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Old Monkwearmouth

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OLD MONKWEARMOUTH
AND
ITS SURROUNDINGS,
SEVENTY YEARS AGO.
Weir Bridge
WEARMOUTH OLD BRIDGE.
BY
JOHN THOMPSON
NEW BRANDLING STREET, MONKWEARMOUTH
————

SUNDERLAND :
PRINTED BY WILLIAM DUNCAN, YORK STREET.
1892.

OLD MONKWEARMOUTH AND ITS
SURROUNDINGS,
SEVENTY YEARS AGO.
————
BY JOHN THOMPSON, 87, NEW BRANDLING STREET,
IN HIS 76TH YEAR
————

One of the greatest boons that man can possess when old age creeps upon him, is a retentive memory. To be without this, tends to make declining years miserable and almost unbearable. The weary and weather-beaten traveller cannot look back on youthful days, when all was joy, sunshine and pleasure. Even the little black clouds which seemed so unbearable to youth are obliterated by the absence of memory. The gradual and almost imperceptible passage from boyhood, youth, manhood, into old age, is from the bright sunshine of memory to a dense mist of the darkness of forgetfulness.

But how different when old age can recall so easily the scenes of early days passing in panoramic view before the mind's eye, reflecting gleams of light on the history of the past, like the Alpine traveller who reaches the rugged mountain top and turns to view the landscape from whence he came.

The writer of this brief sketch has had the good fortune, during his long journey over life's rough way, to be blessed with a good and remarkable retentive memory, and, like the traveller, he has almost reached the summit of life's steep, rugged mountain. Pausing awhile, he looks backward into the history of the past seventy years, relating the many and diversified changes in the growth and progress of dear old Monkwearmouth, and its vicinity, the place of his birth.

I purpose making Wearmouth Bridge my starting-point in this survey of the past. The bridge is one of the greatest wonders accomplished in those days; days when science was not so well known, nor engineering skill so widely diffused, as it is to-day. Dame Nature had been generous, and formed the base of this gigantic structure by the formation of a mass of rock on each bank of the Wear. Previous to the construction of the bridge the town was dependent entirely upon the ferry system, which then on a small scale, no provision whatever being made for vehicular traffic. How the trade and commerce of the town were carried on under such conditions seems incomprehensible to the generation of to-day. One of the chief causes which urged on the project of constructing a bridge was the disaster at the Panns Ferry, just below the bridge, and which still plies. This occurred in the year 1777, and was accompanied by great loss of life; for when the river was swollen by rain or otherwise, at certain seasons of the years, there was great danger in crossing.

The first stone of the new bridge was laid on September 24th, 1793, and completed in 1796, at a total cost of £33,400, out of which £30,000 was advanced by Mr. Rowland Burdon, M.P. for the County. The bridge was built under the direction of Mr. Thomas Walker, of Monkwearmouth. It consists of a magnificent arch, 236 feet in span, and 100 feet in height, from the bed of the river, and it admits of masted vessels from three to four hundred tons burthen to pass underneath. The abutments are nearly solid masonry, 24 feet thick, 42 feet broad at the bottom, and 37 feet at the top, which were subsequently widened. In 1857 the Town Council resolved to take off the hump in the centre of the bridge, being dangerous to vehicular traffic, as well as to the bridge, and to widen it, by carrying outwards the flagged footpaths on either side. This was considered a clever piece of engineering work, and to-day the whole bridge is almost a level passage, thanks to the engineering abilities of the late Mr. Robert Stephenson, C.E. M.P., son of Mr. George Stephenson, the railway pioneer. The work was entrusted to Mr. Stephenson in the year 1857, and was carried out in a most satisfactory manner. We have now on the bridge ample space to allow a tram car line across, leaving ample room for the general traffic. The structure is defended by an iron balustrade, and in the centre is the Latin Motto — "NIL DESPERANDUM, AUSPICE DEO" — "Despair not under the auspices of God." The weight of iron said to be used in its construction was 260 tons, forty-six of which was malleable and the remainder cast iron.
The bridge is now entirely free from toll. which is a great boon to the hard-working people of this thriving and prosperous town. After the completion of the old bridge, a highway on the north side was formed, then named Bridge Road, and subsequently North Bridge Street. A toll was levied for many years on the old bridge, both for vehicles and foot passengers. At the opening of the original bridge there was not a solitary house on the west side of Bridge Road until Fulwell Mill was reached. In 1817, the present row of stone built dwellings, known as Hedworth Place, opposite Monk Street, was erected. On the East side of the Bridge Road, the nearest house to the bridge was

"THE OLD OAK TREE,"

a public house which has since been rebuilt on the old site. This venerable building stood alone on the confines of a meadow known as "Bonner's Field," and its nearest neighbour was the old "Wheat Sheaf Inn," which, despite its extreme age, holds its own to this day. A stranger cannot help being struck at the fine state of preservation of this ancient hostelry. Many a good "yarn" must have been spun within those walls during the old coaching days. Its occupant, when the writer was a little boy, was Joe Dodds, after him, Joseph Crowe, and each in his turn rendered the greatest assistance to that robust class of women who were then known as the "Shearers," who made the house their rendezvous. With their sickle or hook in hand they could be seen, during the harvest season, waiting to be engaged by the farmers to cut down their grain crops. These two Inns did a roaring business in those days, when the coaches were running between the Wear and the Tyne.

After leaving the bridge at that time, there was nothing to the westward of it to be seen but green fields; in fact, it was a lovely landscape then, viewed from outside of the mail coach. Hylton Castle (different to what it is now) was one of the first objects that caught the traveller's eye. No factories nor coal mines then to obstruct the glorious prospect, not to disfigure the landscape with the huge shafts, nor to blacken it with the sooty volumes poured from them.

In 1827 the New Inn was erected, as a rival then to the Wheat Sheaf Inn on the Bridge Road, and was kept by Mr. Smart. At this Inn the Newcastle coaches made their first halt after leaving the George Inn and crossing the bridge. The fare then to the canny city of Newcastle was, outside, 2/6, while inside the enormous sum of 5/- was charged. The well known veteran, the late Tommy Rennison, who died a few years back, at the age of 95, occupied the basket at the rear, outside, giving the signals on the approach of the coach with his key bugle in delightful tones. But what a strange irony of fate in this New Inn as it was called. It is now the residence of the Parish Vicar.

The same year saw the erection of the old Scotch Church, its nearest neighbour, since pulled down, and a magnificent church built on its site, with a lofty spire, seen from many parts of the town. It is now called "The John Black Memorial Presbyterian Church."
These were the first two buildings erected between the Oak Tree and Wheat Sheaf Inns. From the latter, the only house northwards was the residence of Robert Holt, Esq., which was known as the "Blue Factory;" and in later years as Union Place, which still remains intact.

A well known place adjoining it, though now like the rest of that class, was the old

TURNPIKE GATE AND TOLL HOUSE.

From here, on the east side of the road, there were no buildings of any description until the junction of the Shields and Newcastle Roads was reached. There was a wagonway drawn by horse power, which used to run from the quarries and kilns on the opposite side, passing Fulwell Mill until reaching where now stands the Savings Banks, branching off to the lime kilns at the Sheepfolds, and emptied their cargoes on board the small Scotch traders which visited the locality.

Leaving the Wheat Sheaf Inn, in an easterly direction, we come to what was formerly called Broad Street, now Roker Avenue. Here the principal business men of the town resided. One of the residences was the mansion of a former Squire Stafford, at the corner of Fulwell Lane and Broad Street, which was popularly known by the name of the "Babbies." This old place, with its ornamental surroundings, was in the days of my boyhood an object of great attraction and curiosity. The two leaden figures, which have since been removed, and now located in Roker Park, representing Spring and Summer, and were fixed in front of the mansion. A row of lofty lime trees extended from the terrace, at Portobello Lane, forming a home and nursery to the rooks, whose pitiful notes had to me, when a boy, a strange fascination and a weird sound. Time, the Great Destroyer of all things has done its work among these trees, the last of which fell during the gale of November 23rd, 1857, when my heart exclaimed in the words of the poet:—

Oh! Woodman, spare that tree;
Touch not a single bough,
In youth it sheltered me,
And I'll protect it now.

Another curiosity connected with this mansion, and of great service to the village, was the large clock at the top of the venerable building. It chimed the hours in loud and sonorous, and what seemed to me, delightful tones. This building disappeared a few years ago, to make way for a more interesting, perhaps, and very useful structure — the Rope Works of Messrs. Craven & Speeding. Passing from here, in a southerly direction, we get a view Church Street. In those days there were six roperies, all but one running into the street. One was the late Mr. George Hudson's which followed down Fulwell Lane, one, opposite the Wheat Sheaf Inn, was owned by Matthew Robson, afterwards by the late Mr. John Hay. Two adjoined each other at the top of Church Street, and were owned by the late Mr. Byers, and one was the property of the Kirton family. Of the two lower down, adjoining each other in the same way, one was owned by the late Mr. Thompson Oliver and the other by the late Mr. John Storey. Rope making was one of the staple industries of the place in those early days, and was closely connected with the many shipbuilding yards on the Wear.

Church Street seventy years ago, was another of the few famous streets on the north side of the Wear. Houses existed then only on the west side, leading from Nelson Square, opposite the Old Church, to where at present stands the upper house, now converted into a draper's shop and called the "Little Beehive." The road leading up to and past "The Babbies," in the middle of the last century, was the only turnpike road to Newcastle previous to the erection of the bridge, and which took its route up Portobello Lane, coming out on the main road at Union Place Turnpike Catch Gate. Opposite the two upper roperies previously mentioned stood the Toll Gate, where a levy was made on all vehicular traffic leading up from Church Street through Portobello Lane. It was not until the opening of the bridge that the road leading therefrom, known as the Bridge Road, was cut through which is now called "Newcastle Road." At this period there was scarcely any hawking whatever in this part of our town, at least by horse power, the taxation on the roads being unbearable. I have known where powerful dogs were substituted, in small light carts, to take the fish to market. This was to evade the toll, which it did for a time, until the authorities caused the Act to come out in an altered form, prohibiting dogs to be used for such purposes.

To return to Church Street again. Opposite the Toll House there stood an old stone building, better known in the early part of the last century as the

"QUEEN'S HEAD INN,"

and even to-day, with many of the older inhabitants who are natives, it yet retains its ancient name, though its glory and dignity has departed, for it is now (has been for years) let into tenements. The old building with its curios and antiquated work, stands in defiance of time, and is still an object of curiosity and admiration to the present generation. On the east side of Church Street, between the roperies, all was fields in cultivation by their owner, Sir Hedworth Williamson, Bart., under the management of Mr. George Cockburn, who had charge of the farmstead, which extended some distance along Roker banks.

Church Street and Lower Dundas Street seventy years ago! How many instructive associations yet cluster around those two thoroughfares? They are to my mind the emporium of the entire north side of the Wear. How few remain to-day who can follow, with personal recollection and interest, the change of events connected with this place. Another spot yet fresh in my memory was "Cairns' Gardens," which occupied the present site of Lower Dundas Street as a garden, extending south as far as Church Street. At the south-west corner there was a large circular pond, called "The Basin," which occupied the middle part of the present Garden Street, so called after the garden. It was in fact more of an orchard than an ordinary garden, largely stocked with the choicest fruit trees, producing splendid crops during favourable seasons. The apples were very tempting to many of the youngsters in the neighbourhood, and the tree which suffered most from their depredations grew on the spot on which the "Grapes Hotel" was built , in 1826, by Mr. Thomas Walker, Spirit Merchant, who held his own premises up till old age and infirmity set in. This was the first building erected thereon, and the only shop or place of business in the entire street. The remaining buildings were the private residences of the shipowners and captains on the north side. What a change has taken place in these two streets! Nearly the whole of these fine residences have in recent years been converted into spacious shops. At the east end there is , as usual, a long bar; at the opposite corner of Dock Street and Church Street there is the fine business premises of Mr. E.R. Cherrett, which have been considerably enlarged in the Chemist and Druggist department, on account of the increase in business. Our north side ladies have no need now, as in former times, to cross the bridge to make their purchases, as there are in the two streets mentions, also in others, shops that will bear comparison with many on the south side, whether it will be a comparison of quality or amount of stock. There are the grocers and drapers, the fruiterers and butchers, whose numbers are too numerous to specify, but all doing a large amount of business. Then we have the bakers and confectioners, ever ready to supply the wants of their patrons. Following these are the jewellers, shoe shops, fish and poultry dealers, also a few news vendors, all full of that bustle and activity which betokens commercial prosperity. It is very evident that the tradesmen of this ancient part of our town are determined to fully realise the wants and desires of its inhabitants; and, if needs be, to compete with their brother tradesmen of the other side of the water.

There is yet another street which deserves special mention, that is Whitburn Street. Very few changes, if any, have been made in it during the last seventy years, with the exception of some on the opposite side of the Chapel, and a few on the west side. Most of them were occupied by shipowners; and two of the leading medical men on the same side lived in this street then. There were only three of that profession then to attend to the wants of the entire neighbourhood, and that was found sufficient. The pathways in this and other streets were very rough, not a vestige of flags; kerbing or other hard substance could be seen then, at the top of Whitburn Street. Opposite the Workmen's Hall there stands an old relic of the past without any visible alterations. Its history can be traced back for more than two hundred years. I mean the

NAG'S HEAD PUBLIC HOUSE.

It was kept in the middle part of the past century by the writer's grand-parents, and was one of the chief licensed houses in the village. From the front windows of it a full view could be obtained of the bridge during construction, no buildings existing in front to obstruct the prospect. This was a noted house in olden times when the parish churchwardens were vested with the power to visit the public houses after the church service had begun, in order to see that they complied with then existing laws. Yet those officials were not of the type that, in this and other towns, are doing a similar duty to-day. I have been told, from a source which I can rely upon, that many years ago, on the arrival of the churchwardens at the "Nag's Head," there was always awaiting them the best that the house could provide, to make them jolly and comfortable during their stay. They cared little then about visiting other houses within the parish after freely partaking here of the glass that cheers, for its hospitality was not confined to any extent, nor yet the pipe with its delightful fumes. Before leaving they could sing, "What two jolly boys are we." That such a state of things did exist in olden times I have every reason to believe, for, to my knowledge, when a child, I remember that whenever the name of the churchwarden was mentioned, it seemed to strike terror into the youthful minds much more than the name of a policeman of the present day does. Happily, this is now changed. The laws which regulate the liquor traffic are more stringent. What was done then, and only winked at, would now be considered a serious offence, carrying with it the infliction of heavy penalties both on seller and consumer. On looking back over the past, one can see how not only places but customs have changed, and are changing still, in old Monkwearmouth.

Ere I close this little local work, I cannot refrain from giving an outline of another of the most interesting parts of our ancient town. Possibly there is not to be found in the United Kingdom any edifice that has maintained its great and ancient name as a church like that of our venerable building — Monkwearmouth Parish Church, at Sunderland, which lately held its anniversary, for the 1,218th time, but I should like to draw attention to the ancient burial ground attached to the church. In my childhood's days, it was the resort of a large proportion of the juvenile class, as well as adults. It acted as a charm, in drawing together many of the younger ones, to visit this sacred spot in close proximity to our homesteads. There were then few attractions elsewhere for juveniles and others. How different is the present time, in drawing forth the desires and love for a change of scenery, away from the slums of a thickly populated village, as Monkwearmouth was seventy years ago. The sacred spot in question differed much in its appearance then to what it does at the present time. No steps were needed to ascend or descend the embankment in front of the sacred edifice. It was then almost a plain level from the church. It was very easy then for the Bearers, on leaving the church with their heavy burdens, to carry the remains to their last resting place, as there was no embankment to ascend. It was the only ground for the burial of people residing much further to the west than Southwick and Whitburn in the north. It was the only receptacle for the dead for many miles outside the various points of this ancient parish.

This condition of affairs extended over a period of several hundreds of years; and it is reasonable to suppose that the ground became so full, and the air so foul and polluted, on account of the continuous openings of so many graves, and this in the midst of a densely populated district, that steps were taken sometime about 1849 (although I am not quite sure as to the year) to have a thick covering of ballast put on the top of the entire ground. This ballast was only a slight depth at the west, or upper end, and increased to a greater depth at the opposite end. This will account for the bank being formed abreast of the church entrance. The material used for this purpose was collected from the ballast brought by ships coming to the Wear. It was drawn up through a tunnel in wagons, and landed on the Williamson estate wherever required. This estate has long ago been built upon. This was found to be an easy and cheap method of filling up the old churchyard. Thus, in looking at the old church from a northerly direction, it now appears to be in a hollow, on account of the ground outside being so frequently filled up. To have the work done most effectually, the Sexton or Gravedigger, Mr. John Meaburn, was instructed to remove the whole of the then existing tombstones, which were placed on upon another, in tiers, close under the old tower of the church. On the ground being filled up and levelled, the stones still remained in that position. At an unexpected time, one of the leading townsmen on the south of the Wear, evidently felling annoyed at the delay, obtained permission to place the stones in rows. He did this at his own expense; and, as far as was possible, they were placed in their old position. No record whatever was made of them on removal. He set himself at once to the work; and being of a somewhat eccentric disposition, and known throughout the town, he soon gave employment to a number of old men who had been formerly at work in the shipyards — he being the "boss" or superintendent. He had several loads of short cuttings of timber brought and deposited near the stones, for the purpose of marking the positions, in haphazard style, in which each stone had to be firmly fixed. One of those blocks had, for the time being, to denote the stone. He paid little attention as to the exact spot on which they formerly stood, nor would he allow any one else to interfere. This method he adopted, and we are told caused frequent gatherings of the surplus labour from the shipyards who came to annoy the eccentric man from the south side of the Wear. As we have already said, he was endeavouring to achieve a great work, and he would not allow any other person to interfere; yet, notwithstanding the shameful opposition he met with (considering the high position he held in the town), he at last succeeded in his object, much to the chagrin of those who should have known better in the olden times of Monkwearmouth.
I may as well mention here, that when the churchyard was levelled with ballast, in 1841, John Meaburn (according to the church register) was dismissed for the very unusual offence of stealing gravestones, and that Michael Wheatley was appointed in his room. One of the present churchwardens tells me that he can remember the churchyard being levelled when he was a boy, and that he was not born until 1844.

From what has come under my own observation, I can tell that many of the stones are placed far away from where they at first stood. I can instance our own family relic. This stone is placed far away from its former position. It is now nearly on a line with the entrance to the church; whereas it formerly stood between the western wall and where it is now. There are few of the stones which were taken up and replaced that can date as far back as this one. All that I can make out plainly is a small portion; the other faintly, which I imagine, with the help of the dates, can be traced from existing records which have been carefully preserved by the family. The stone, therefore, will read as follows:— "In memory of Hannah Young, of Monkwearmouth, who died in 1759, aged 44 years. Also, John Thompson, son-in-law of the above, and husband of Hannah Thompson." This is all that can be made out intelligibly. Taking the figures given as correct, my Great Grandmother, Hannah Young, must now have been buried there 133 years. My Grandmother, Hannah Thompson, died in 1844 aged 80 years, and was buried in the same ground.

Thus ends the interesting part given in the historical account of Monkwearmouth; and it is hoped that this brief narrative of our town may afford to our readers that pleasure which it has given to an old inhabitant to compile it.

WILLIAM DUNCAN, PRINTER, YORK STREET, SUNDERLAND.

Footnote:

These texts have been copied from negative photographs of the original book which are held by the Monkwearmouth Local Studies Group based at Monkwearmouth Library. In retyping the text, I have kept to the grammar used by Mr. John Thompson but have corrected one or two typographical errors.

Michael Thompson