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Four Hills

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RECOLLECTIONS

OF THE

FOUR HILLS

ON MONKWEARMOUTH SHORE

AND THEIR SURROUNDINGS,

SEVENTY YEARS AGO

BY

JOHN THOMPSON, OF ZETLAND STREET.

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ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

—————

WILLIAM DUNCAN, PRINTER, YORK STREET, SUNDERLAND

PREFACE.

Suffer me now to hope that this little work may prove to be what it professes: a finger-post pointing from the past to the present. Much thought and time have been expended in its production, in order to make it both useful and instructive, and to show the progress that has been made in every hand in this ancient corner of our large town. These reminiscences, extending over a period of seventy years, should go a long way to prove to the reader of to-day how wonderful this progress has been.

For many of the dates herein contained the writer is indebted to John Dickinson, Esq., J.P., a great employer of labour in this part of our ancient town. To him, therefore, taking as he does a special interest in the town of his birth, this book is humbly dedicated.

JOHN THOMPSON.
June, 1891

THE FOUR HILLS

ON MONKWEARMOUTH SHORE

AND THEIR SURROUNDINGS,

SEVENTY YEARS AGO.
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There seems a great tendency with many who are swiftly passing the limits of the span of life allotted, to recall to mind the many changes that have taken place amidst the vicissitudes of time during their earthly pilgrimage, in our own town, particularly on the north side of the Wear. I shall, however, confine the subject of my remarks to the FOUR HILLS on Monkwearmouth Shore and their surroundings, seventy years ago. The starting point will be

THE MEETING HILL.

The hill was so called on account of a meeting house being built on the crown of the hill by the Baptist denomination, in the early part of the past century, who are supposed to be the oldest Non-conformist body on the north side of the Wear. During the later years of its existence there the pastor was the Rev. Mr. Gerror. When the baptismal services had to take place, the spot they selected was in the open North Sea, at the Holey Rock, Roker. This spot was chosen on account of the scarcity of water prevailing throughout the entire town.

The Meeting Hill was once a famous resort for juvenile gatherings, especially during Easter time when they assembled for the bowling of their paste eggs down the grassy slopes at the ends and sides of its banks. The entrance to the hill was by a gateway as near as possible to the present front entrance of Williamson Terrace P.M. Chapel, Charles Street. Here free access was given to young and old. There was a beautiful gravel path leading from the gate to the chapel on the summit of the hill, which was a complete grassy plain. The estimated height from the river on the southern slope of the hill was supposed to be over a thousand feet. On account of the free access given to the public to any part of this lovely sward, the seafaring portion of the population used frequently to ascend to the top when a southerly wind was blowing favourable for the arrival of our wooden fleet of sailing colliers to the roadstead, whence a grand view could be obtained with no obstruction whatever. The only source of income to be derived from the land was by letting it for grazing purposes for sheep only, there being so few butchers there on the north side at this time. At the foot of the north-west corner of the hill were the brewery old stables. Opposite to these, in a northerly direction , was

THE OLD SCOTCH CHURCH.

Mr. James Westoll, in a recently published pamphlet, states that prior to the year 1777 there was no Presbyterian Church on this side of the Wear, and there was no bridge across the Wear at that time. A number of people who attended Robinson's Lane Church were compelled to cross by the ferry, and, when strong freshets occurred, it was often dangerous to do so. An accident, however, happened and some lives were lost; this led to the formation of a church on this side of the river.

The first place of meeting was in a stable, altered for the purpose, somewhere near to the top of the Brewery Bank. There, in the spring, 17th April, 1777, the first services were held. The stable, however, becoming too small for the vastly increasing congregation, ground was secured opposite to it, and the church was built and completed towards the close of 1778. That church was called Ropery Lane, or Rope Walk Chapel, because of its nearness to a ropery. Mr. Westoll also tells us that Dr. John Wood was the pastor in the old church, and at the time of their removal to North Bridge Street on the 12th July, 1827. At the foot of the northern slope of the Meeting Hill, there was a direct line leading from Whitburn Street, passing to the southern side of Waterloo Place, to the old church. On the opposite side of this roadway was the brewery field. In the middle of the past century this roadway was utilised as a twine spinning ropery, thus it derived its name — Ropery Lane. This old church, together with the Baptist Church on the hill, was doomed about the year 1833, for the proprietors of the land, the Williamson family, decided to make a great change. Interesting, too, are the many historical incidents which make the whole area sacred ground. Eventually those old buildings were levelled to the ground, to be replaced by more spacious and commodious ones. There were bound up with them many traditions and old associations, which usually disappear or are forgotten when the old stones have been carted away. For nearly a century the vicinity of the old church at the foot of the hill was the scene of many romantic and eccentric incidents, engendered for the most part by the old school of manners and morals long since happily reformed. The green pasture fields which stretched as far as the eye could see, had to give way for the estate to be utilised as building land.

Consequently steps were taken to reduce the hill near to a level with the Waterloo Place estate terminating at the Barclay Street Police Station. This was accomplished by waggons running on temporary iron rails until the entire hill was removed. Soon streets were formed and the few remaining pasture fields converted into the principal dwellings of the captains and tradesmen residents on the north side of the river. It is generally believed that the Meeting Hill, together with its three sister hills about to be named, were produced, years gone by, by the ballast taken out of the sailing colliers at the cranes on the North Quay and deposited at each of those places.

I now come to another interesting spot,

PALMER'S HILL.

This hill was situated on the south side of the Meeting Hill just named: there was a public highway road which divided them, leading from Whitburn Street to the brewery, shipyards, and the coal drops near the bridge. The present roadway is greatly changed from its former position. There can be no doubt whatever that the hill took its name from an old resident of the name of Palmer, who occupied the very large square built residence and the ground attached on the top of this hill. In the early part of the present century this large building was let off in tenements. The principal tenant was a Mr. Haswell, better known then as Willy Haswell the sawyer, who had a small timber yard on the top of the hill, with sawpits for cutting the timber by hand power. This hill, it must be remembered, was not so high as its northern neighbour, yet its height from the river was immense. Notwithstanding this, it did not seem to alarm a company of

FOUR YOUNG SHIPWRIGHTS

in March, 1839, to enter into a speculation to build a coasting vessel well up on the slope of the south side of the hill, the writer being one of the company. The names of the members were Messrs. Dennis and Wm. Douglass (brothers) and John Clark. Sometime ago the writer remembers two of our Magistrates, who are amongst the great employers of labour on the Wear, say that, when young men, they saw the launch. They considered it to be the most wonderful undertaking in ship building and ship launching ever known or heard of by them, and expressed the opinion that a work so extraordinary ought to appear in print. It was, however, printed in the Hendon Almanack in 1884. It was, indeed, the most unlikely spot ever selected for such an undertaking. This event, striking as it is, will be justly admitted to have a close connection with the hill we are describing, and to me one of the most marvellous events connected with Palmer's Hill. The adventure being resolved upon, and leave being granted by the agent of Sir Hedworth Williamson, the four youths formed themselves into a company and at once began to cut away the slopes of the hill in order to get a fixed place on which the vessel was to stand. This being done, they soon began to construct this vessel on speculation. The work had to be done by them in overtime, either before their working hours began or after they were finished. They proposed, in the event of getting a purchaser, to finish the vessel right off. Not finding themselves so fortunate in this respect as they had anticipated, they were compelled to take a decided step, the vessel being well advanced, to endeavour to get her safely launched, for in the stormy month of November her situation became dangerous and critical, not only on account of the height of the hill and her great distance from the river but also because there were alarming signs of the hillsides giving way. After being secured afresh from further danger, the builders were advised to get the ship ready for launching as early as possible. About this period, Lady Williamson was driving along by the North Quay in her carriage, and observing the vessel in the distance, nearly at the top of the hill, like a crow's nest in a tree, had the carriage stopped to make enquiries. She sent one of her attendants to ascertain what was going on, requesting one of the persons engaged to come down to the carriage. Her ladyship asked the question, "What is that?" "What is that you are constructing upon that hill?" "Its a coasting vessel in process of building upon speculation by four young men," was the reply. "What method will you adopt to get her into the water in safety?" "Sometimes we think we will be compelled to lower her down as the declivity is so great, at other times we think of launching her in the usual way, the ground being so treacherous." "When will that event take place?" "About the end of the year," was the reply. "Have you any doubt about launching her successfully?" "Perhaps there has never been such an undertaking as this before on the Wear, but we hope to succeed." Lady Williamson then expressed a wish to see the launch, saying that if we would kindly let her know when that event was to take place she would not forget the trouble we had taken and the time expended on satisfying her curiosity. There are a number of our older residents who can well remember the facts here stated about this vessel being built on Palmer's Hill. On the western slope of the hill there was a roadway leading to the quay, and just under the bilge of the vessel of the vessel was the smithy of

WILLY NIPPER,

a well known personage. At the foot of the embankment there was a house used for scullery purposes, (the vessel having to come over the top of it) and on either side were some lofty stone buildings facing the river. In the centre of this opening where the vessel had to come down there stood, firmly fixed, the River Commissioners' mooring post, which formed a serious obstruction. Notwithstanding all the influence brought to bear, the mooring post had in no case to be removed. With all these obstructions in the way the safe launching of the ship seemed very doubtful. The vessel on her way to the river had to go in a slight curve, not less than three feet from a straight line. Another difficulty was soon manifest: instructions were given that on the day of the launch a space of 12 feet must be kept open, until two hours before high water, so as not to obstruct the quayside thoroughfare. In January, 1840, the romantic undertaking was carried out. A letter was sent to Lady Williamson apprising her of the intended launch. Thousands of persons assembled on both banks of the Wear to witness the site. Eminent practical builders exclaimed "What a declivity, two and a half inches in the foot!" "It is monstrous!" The usual gradients on the Wear and in H.M. dockyards being three-fourths of seven-eighths of an inch in the foot. The vessel was anxiously watched during the morning, as she was showing signs of approaching trouble and alarm. They not disturb either blocks or shores; the shores under her stern, (the ship being stern down) keeping her up the hill, dare not be removed until the last moment, and then they were pulled away by ropes. Previous to this exciting and critical time, the youthful builders had held a consultation to select one who should go on board and cut away the anchor. The lot fell upon the writer, but his relative, Thomas Princes, a most fearless son of Albion, volunteering to do that duty, his offer was accepted. Scarcely had he been safely fastened round the waist when the police announced that all was clear, and, amidst great excitement amongst the spectators, the brave little vessel began to move on her perilous journey towards the domains of Old Neptune. The blocks that held her in position she now hurled from her in all directions, some of them flying down the steep gradient at a terrific rate, almost like lightening speed. No one could at this time distinguish her form, her speed being so great. Then came the troubling of the water. As the little craft plunged into her native element the waves swept clean over her. For the moment she was lost sight of, but she immediately rose like a duck to the surface in gallant style, and after again being submerged rose the second time, and then ran aground on the south side of the river. Prince, who never got the anchor cut away, escaped unhurt. Lady Williamson, being in London at the time, wrote to say that she could not witness the launch on account of the distance being so great and the length of time it would take to perform the journey. An ample spread was, however, to be provided at her expense in honour of such a wonderful event, and this of course was done in truly English fashion. The local weekly, "The Sunderland Herald," stated the following:— "Launched off Palmer's Hill, North Quay, a beautiful coasting vessel. This event attracted thousands of spectators on both sides of the river. As to the safety of the launch, when she was freed by the young builders she left her birth-place, where she had stood nearly twelve months, in rapid style while the man on board, evidently entertaining no fear, was an excellent example of the quality of our lifeboat heroes." In the same month, January, 1840, a disastrous flood took place on a Sunday night, on the Wear, through the breaking up of ice in the upper parts of the river. This small vessel was one of the sufferers. She became almost a wreck. The youthful builders having made all repairs good, three of them left for the south, Clark preferring to stay behind. He still remains in the town. The only other survivor is Mr. John Thompson of Zetland Street, the writer of this extraordinary but truthful statement. He has been away from his native town for many years, but returned a few years ago to settle down here for the few remaining years of his eventful life. The writer wishes to correct a false impression among many that the vessel now in question was called the "Polka." It was not so; the "Polka" being built years after the former builders left for the south, and nothing so high up the hill.

We now come to another interesting feature of Palmer's Hill. At the south-eastern bank there stood, in the early part of the present century, a fine quaint building, of large dimensions, containing a gallery. It was occupied by the Freemasons of the north side of the Wear, and is said to have been the first held by the craft on the north side of the Wear. In 1812, it was given up by them, and came into the possession of the Congregationalist body of the north side of the Wear. They remained in possession of it until they built Salem Chapel, Roker Avenue. The building for many years afterwards, up to the date of demolition, was used as a public school by Mr. George Warren.
Another very interesting link in connection with this endless chain is still to be told. It will doubtless surpass all that has been previously said, in point of pluck, energy, and success. Regarding this celebrated hill, the northsiders, in my early days, could not boast of the progress and enterprise of their undertakings in the various spheres of labour which they were then engaged in. Their work was confined chiefly to that of building wooden ships, and many, by their industry and zeal, gained for themselves both wealth and honour in the business of their trade, while some among the number even still retain a good name. In many cases, however, the trade was established on this river by their ancestors in the early days, when liability companies were unknown, and trade and commerce apparently undeveloped, like the electric light which shines so brightly. But science, which has brought about so many changes in every department of life, had its effect on the building of ships; and just as the locomotive, the most wonderful, perhaps, of inventions, took the place of the old stage coach, and as in these still more modern days the electric light is superseding the use of gas, so, in the same way, the old wooden vessels had to give way in favour of the more costly iron fleet propelled by steam power; and, as in most things of this kind, England has led the way in effecting these improvements, and perhaps no part of the country has rendered more effective assistance in this respect than the town of Sunderland. The Wear, indeed, took a prominent part, and rendered great assistance in bringing about this. As an example of this desirable change, I might point out the great and stupendous undertaking of converting Palmer's Hill into the magnificent marine engine and boiler works by the indomitable tact and skill of John Dickinson, Esq., J.P. In the year 1860 the first step was taken, and, single handed as he appeared to be, he succeeded in levelling this hill. The amount of forethought and skill required in the undertaking must have been enormous. The stupendous nature of the work can be best illustrated by comparing it to an orange cut in halves. The upper portion of the hill was of no service whatever, and it had, by some means, to be got rid of, therefore, in the year 1875, he determined to remove the top of the hill, as greater facilities for carrying on his business became necessary at this time. The road now known as Roker Avenue, from Ravensworth Terrace to Roker, was in progress of being made, which offered a ready deposit for the ballast to be removed from Palmer's Hill. Then a start was made, and during the alterations something like six thousand carts of ballast were removed, and to this extent assisted in making this very important thoroughfare from Monkwearmouth to Roker. The roadway mentioned, leading towards the brewery, being on a level with the centre of the hill, the difficulty that was overcome in order to secure a good and firm foundation, so as to place upon it the structure of such enormous weights in those vast works, was the crowning point of this enterprise. Evidently there was no lack in the plans of this practical engineer; evidently his motto was 'forward.' The work was begun at a period when trade and commerce were beginning to spread, and this part of our town required a man of enterprise and no small amount skill and energy to lay the foundation for future success. The way being laid, the works were advanced in proportion as the growth of the system required in the changing from our wooden walls to our ironclads.

Mr. Dickinson's works began just at the time when success might be expected, and Palmer's Hill soon became widely known for the substantial qualities of his engines and boilers used for propelling the large steam ships for which his engines were supplied. It is not my intention in this pamphlet to go into details in those things which would attract the attention of a scientific mind in passing through this vast establishment, suffice it to say that they are too numerous to dwell on here. The whole of the works, whichever direction the visitor may take, will be found full of surprises, especially the great and powerful cranes inside and outside. The latter, situated on the quayside, are said to be tested to lift sixty tons, but have, I understand, lifted nearly 80 tons — the boilers of the large tea ships built by Messrs. J.L. Thompson & Sons — and used in lifting the ponderous engines and boilers in the ships when afloat at their extensive quay walls, which are fitted with the electric light. I may mention that modern machinery of all descriptions necessary for the manufacture of these engineers are to be found here, nothing is wanting to make this establishment equal to the best of its kind throughout the length and breadth of our sea-girt isle. Another feature which abounds, so prominent in the Palmer's Hill engine works is the vast number of men and boys employed in night and day shifts throughout the year. I am told that the average number of men and boys, all told, employed on the works varies from nine hundred to a thousand, which is a great boon to this part of the town as well as to the opposite shores of the Wear. The first pair of marine engines made in this establishment was in July, 1872, for a vessel built by J.L. Thompson, North Sands shipyard, for Messrs. John Tully & Partners. Should we compare the present with the past, we find things very different, especially with regard to the employment of surplus labour. The only places available for our boys were found in our local shipyards, roperies and potteries of the town at this time.

We now leave the busy scenes of this most noble industry, and give our attention to the neighbouring hill. The scene is greatly changed, no longer the lovely green sward to gaze upon as in the two former hills, but a dark, dismal, and barren view in every direction. The history of this ancient hill still remains to be told. Its story is a strange one, and one peculiarly its own. Various changes have occurred in its history, especially on its eastern side.

CAGE HILL

is but a short distance, in an easterly direction, from the others named; its altitude, compared with the others, being much less.
The most prominent feature in connection with this hill was the cage, or local prison, on the top of it. Fifty-four years ago the case was permanently occupied as a prison, where the law-breakers on the north side of the Wear were temporarily lodged previous to their trial. It was of small dimensions, with huge stone walls, iron doors, and barred windows. As to its internal management, of course there were no comforts to be found there. It had often been said by many of its unfortunate occupants that it was greatly infested with rats. Be that as it may, there can be no wonder about this report, which was generally believed, for there were a number of piggeries adjoining, which remained for a long period. Eventually, the cage was demolished. It and the town were almost solely in charge of two of the parish constables, Matthew Potts for Monkwearmouth parish and Willy Smith for the Shore parish. Those were the only two who took a prominent part in preserving order throughout the town. They seem to have had unlimited power in those olden times, when all was dark and gloomy, having full access not only to the cage but the barbarous stocks also. Such was the impression made upon the public mind, that the appearance of one or the other of those officials struck terror in every direction, for they were both bold and daring, well qualified for the work they were engaged in. The staves of office allowed them at that time were of much larger dimensions than those now in the possession of our police force. They were painted blue; at one end was the Royal arms, in gold, and they were formidable instruments to use. They had also the usual hand-cuffs, the links in the chain very stout and heavy.

To bring about a more satisfactory condition of watching, the authorities resolved to introduce the

BOROUGH POLICE FORCE

on the north side of the Wear. The following is drawn from an old and authentic account I have before me:— "The police force was established on November 14, 1837, on which date the first charge was taken." The present strength of the police force in this division is 1 inspector, 3 sergeants, and 22 constables, making a total of 26 men. At the time when the force was formed, the total strength was fourteen men, consisting of Inspector John Bailes, Sergeant Paxton and two others, and 10 constables. The first station house was in Church Street, opposite Victor Street, now occupied as a draper's shop, called "the little beehive."

On the town being handed over to the charge of the men dressed in blue, decked with their shining glazed capes and old fashioned flat crowned hats, the crown covered with a glazed material, the parish constables were shorn greatly of their power, and the cage with its officials were left to dwindle away as things of the past.

As to Cage Hill, I can go back sixty-five years, when the hill was let off in allotments for kitchen gardens, and remained so for a a great number of years afterwards. It must be understood that it was only the western slope of the hill, leading down into Trafalgar Street, now called Whitburn Street, where those allotment gardens were to be seen. The principal tenants were John Campbell, better known as "Jack the baker," Joseph Lowes, a castor or trimmer, James Whirl, another of the same class, and Charley Hills, a trenail maker. These were men well known. They rivalled each other to such an extent that there was often a considerable amount of ill-feeling existing among them as to the quality of their products. One among the number mentioned, in all cases considered the best articles grown on the slope was by himself, and so strongly did he feel on this point that he would never allow another person to be his judge in such matters. He devoted much time to the work, although the same may be said of the others. At all times of the day or evening, weather permitting, one or more of them were to be seen plodding on. In fact, the gardens were kept in a thorough state of order and neatness, and formed a pleasant outlook to the residential houses opposite the hill. These are now being rased to the ground to allow Messrs. Robson & Sons to extend their timber yard from the quay wall further north. The state in which the hill appears at the present is a most distressing sight. The green verdure which formerly decked the slopes has all disappeared: the leek, the carrot, the turnip, and cabbage are among the things of the past as far as this hill is concerned, its altered appearance differing greatly from its original state.

This part of the town seems to be not only neglected, but deserted by the class of folk, who have had to remove elsewhere in consequence of the changes which have taken place through the employers of labour requiring the land for the extension of their business pursuits.

One point, in conclusion, to which I might refer in connection with the Cage Hill, was the very conspicuous lofty mast which stood firmly fixed in the centre of a raised platform, as a "look out." Signals were supposed to be hoisted here when help was required by the few officials in charge of the town. The only help, however, those functionaries received was during the darkness of the night. Old worn-out seamen, known as patrols or watchmen, chiefly located on the quayside, were stationed in order to protect the shipping moored in the river. Strange as it may appear now, the custom prevailing then was to call out loudly the hours as they passed along. This afforded a good means for the evil disposed to commit the various crimes which were very prevalent throughout our towns.

Another old hill on the shore was the

LOOK OUT HILL,

situated in a north-easterly direction from the others previously mentioned.

This hill, as its name indicated, was some years ago a celebrated spot where a good sea view could be obtained, especially of vessels entering the harbour. This was the rendezvous for our north side pilots, who were a brave and hardy set of men, never seeming to entertain any fear of danger. Amongst these brave number was a powerful and stalwart man, standing over 6 feet 2 inches in height, by the name of William Atkinson, better known by the name of "Patey Willy," and also Tom Jobling, also better known as "Tom the Note," these belonging to a family of Joblings and Atkinsons. The families were renowned all over the town for their deeds of bravery, and they were certainly an example of the truest heroism. When they found that the state of the weather often prevented them from getting out of the piers in their cobles to answer a signal flying in the distance from a ship seeking the aid of a pilot, (having from this hill seen the signal) they planned that their coble should be taken to Whitburn, a distance between two and three miles, so as to launch her there. The writer has on many occasions been an eye-witness of those things and can testify to the bravery they displayed. This big, powerful fellow might often be seen, when the other cobles could not get out to sea, in the greatest of danger, when the ship under sail had barely entered the harbour, he was sure to be seen the first to make a leap, and springing from his frail bark, in a seething and boiling sea, secure a firm hold of the shrouds, after which he quickly took charge of the vessel. In spite of his many noble acts of bravery, for he had no fear, he was like many of his class prone to give way to the influence of strong drink at times, this caused him to be a terror to those with whom he came in contact on account of his muscular strength and determined character; and almost the same might be said of Tom Joblin, or "Tom the Note."

An object of very great interest on the Look Out Hill was

THE STOCKS.

These were firmly fixed in the rising ground above the roadway, where now stand the National Schools connected with the Parish Church. I remember seeing Tommy Crommy placed in those stocks, and he was to be kept there twelve hours for being drunk. This old veteran had lost his legs while fighting under Lord Nelson, and had in place of them wooden legs. The constable, after making his prisoner, as he thought, secure, took his departure. Tommy then soon began to unstrap his wooden legs, and setting himself free replaced them amidst the roars of laughter from the people who had attended to witness Tommy hobbling home down the hill. Another comical fellow, a little deformed, was a snob named Geordie Slee, a well known occupant of the stocks. He had a wooden shanty as a workshop on the Look Out Hill, and was the tool and sport of the pilots. They habitually made him drunk, and always, when elevated, for it was seldom he was sober, his song was

If I was a brewer's horse one quarter of the year
I would put my mouth to the bung hole and drink out all the beer.

Another prominent place on the hill was

THE TUNNEL,

leading from the quayside in order to convey the ballast in waggons up to the hills. A great amount of smuggling went on in this dark and dreary tunnel. The tunnel is still under the centre of Hedworth Street, forming an entire arch, bricked from top to bottom, and was placed there in 1827, and of no service now whatever. There was a roadway, which was very steep, leading from the road at the back to the old church. It was between the northern slope of the Look Out Hill and the gardens on the opposite side, belonging to the workhouse master, Mr. John Mills. Those gardens he cultivated chiefly for flowers and strawberries, and kept them in excellent order. At the foot of the hollow of this roadway was the Strand, celebrated for the quantity of well kept public houses. Among the oldest was the "Pear Tree House," which was many years ago demolished with other buildings. At this period the residential houses of the Strand were in great requisition, owning to their close proximity to the shipyards. This part of the town was then very different to what it is now, for there was no ironworks there to pollute the air with their black smoke. Where they now stand there was a square of working class houses, one of them being converted into a school. Among the number of boys attending this school was the aged veteran whose name is so well known throughout the town, that of the late Mr. David Holsgrove. He used to talk about the master dismissing the school every day at three o'clock, in order that he might be able to attend to another engagement. This was to get the amount of work done each day by the horses of Sir Hedworth Williamson. The roadway just mentioned was bridged over by a wooden structure for the waggons to pass over. This woodwork was a great obstruction to a full view from the hill seawards. On one memorable occasion there was a disastrous sight seen from this vantage ground. During Tuesday, October 14, 1829, above one hundred and fifty colliers had arrived safely in harbour, and several sailed again, laden, with a favourable north-west wind and a smooth sea; but, during the night, the wind shifted to the north-east and a most tremendous sea came on. On the following morning the view presented from this hill was one of the most awful spectacles ever witnessed for many years. Four vessels were lying on their broadsides on the South Rocks, and by three o'clock in the afternoon there were fifteen vessels on shore and wrecked between the South Pier and Hendon. About four o'clock, the "Eleanor," of Monkwearmouth, which had sailed the day previous for the north, in putting back, sank in the mouth of the harbour, and all on board perished in sight of some thousands of spectators unable to render the slightest assistance. All this was brought about by a thick, heavy, blinding snowstorm coming on just as the vessels had weighed anchor to take the harbour under sail. The brigs "Sarah Gales" and "Hunter," which were among the unfortunate vessels, were got off after the storm abated and, having been repaired, ran for many years afterwards. The wife of the captain of the "Sarah Gales," being on board when she came on shore, had to be dragged to the shore through the surf, like the others of the ships, by lines cleverly set on board, in an exhausted condition.

And now, my short history is ended. If it has served to trace the wonderful progress made by this town during the memory of the writer its purpose will not have been in vain. Let those of the rising generation who may read it take a lesson from those who have, by their industry and zeal, done so much for our town, by so doing will honour themselves, and leave behind them names honourable and honoured, and will conclude by the lines of the poet Montgomery—

Hail to the glorious plan that spread
The light with universal beams;
And through the human desert led
Truth's loving, pure, perpetual streams.

Behold a new creation rise,
New spirit breathed into the clod,
Where'ere the voice of wisdom cries,
Man know thyself and fear thy God.

WILLIAM DUNCAN, PRINTER, YORK STREET, SUNDERLAND

Footnote:
These texts have been copied from negative photographs of the original book which are held by the Monkwearmouth Local Studies Group based at Monkwearmouth Library. In retyping the text, I have kept to the grammar used by Mr. John Thompson but have corrected one or two typographical errors.

Michael Thompson